A Tale of Two Roads: Exploring Alaska’s Remote Dalton Highway and Richardson Highway Through Ice and Snow

Some people never leave their home state. Others venture to places in the lower 48 but never explore past their comfort zone. What happens to those who travel beyond those constraints and experience parts of Alaska’s last frontier?

Are they known as true adventurers or fringe lunatics? Alaska is home to jagged mountains, glaciers, and ice roads—and the only way to see them is by driving iconic byways like the Dalton and Richardson highways. After piloting a few different vehicles on these remote roads, we share our experiences with you.

The Mighty Dalton Highway

The James W. Dalton, or Dalton Highway, is a 414-mile stretch of mostly dirt and gravel that spans from Livengood, Alaska, northbound to Prudhoe Bay, flanking the Arctic Ocean.

This highway, otherwise known as the “Haul Road” is best known for its extreme remoteness and challenging conditions made famous by the TV show Ice Road Truckers. Its primary purpose is to serve the truckers enroute from the Prudhoe Bay oil fields to Fairbanks and beyond and back. In certain instances, the Trans-Alaska pipeline trots along the highway, zig-zagging its way through slender pine trees.

Coldfoot is a small town located at the mid-point of the Dalton Highway. It’s 175 miles north from Livengood and offers little more than 34 residents (as of the 2020 census) and the Coldfoot Camp fuel depot. Coldfoot is said to have gotten its name when gold seekers got cold feet after making it that far north. They turned around from their voyage and headed back.

Coldfoot Camp is the farthest-north truck stop in the United States and is located about 174 miles into the 414-mile-long trek heading north. Not only does Coldfoot serve those who travel the Dalton Highway, but it’s a great place to fish and explore the Brooks Mountain Range.

If you’re planning to drive the Dalton, there are key factors to consider. Driving conditions can be difficult no matter what time of year it is. Normal services are extremely limited.

The Dalton Highway features steep inclines and descents, sweeping bends, and many blind curves. In the summer, the Dalton’s surfaces become slick in places and muddy in others. In the winter, the road becomes snow- and ice-covered, with graders grooming the surface for extra traction.

Weather up there can change on a dime, too. Bring extra food, water, warm clothing, and vehicle recovery gear in case of issue. No matter what you drive up there, be sure your tires are up to snuff.

Three-peak-mountain snowflake-rated (3PMS) tires, like Michelin X-Ice SNOW tires, work best for winter travel. Note: Your vehicle may suffer gravel rash and a broken windscreen or front lights due to flying gravel after driving the Dalton.

Our Dalton Experiences

Our first experience with the iconic Dalton Highway was in 2020, while piloting our 1991 right-hand-drive turbo diesel Mitsubishi Pajero 4x4 during the winter Alcan 5000 Rally.

The second time we drove the Dalton was in 2024 for the same winter competition, partnering with INEOS Automotive, as my husband, Andy Lilienthal, tested the new INEOS Grenadier Trialmaster 4x4.

For both winter rallies, Andy was our team’s driver, while I was the navigator. The trek from Fairbanks to Coldfoot and back was an optional route, testing only those who strived to complete all extra rally courses to earn additional awards. Other teams took the day off and lounged at Fairbanks’ Chena Hot Springs.

Four years ago, we were faced with tough road conditions. A flat, cloudy day made it hard to discern distance and general fatigue had set in from seven previous long days of rally competition. Tons of truckers kept Andy on his toes.

They drove in the center of the highway at times, took wide, sweeping curves into opposing lanes to make it up steep inclines, and were difficult to pass. It was some of the hardest driving he’s ever done.

However, in 2024, we were gifted with bluebird skies and a near-clear road. We were amazed to see rolling hills, further-off distances, and hardly any long haulers until we headed back south to Fairbanks.

“The Dalton was great this year; far better than in 2020,” Andy said. “The snow-encrusted trees at the higher elevations on the Dalton are awesome. They’re like something out of a Dr. Seuss book.”

Trucker Etiquette

Andy and I gave the truckers a wide berth. Plus, we learned how to communicate with them, so they knew where we were at any given moment, thanks to our on-board Rugged Radios. The Dalton Highway is a serious big-rig road that’s critical to Alaska’s economy. Give each semitruck respect and room.

If you have radio communications with you, let them know what mile marker you’re at and where you’re headed to, so they know where to expect you (they’re often on 1 of 40 of the LADD channels).

This will help everyone stay clear of each other and promote safety on the highway. Also, anticipate that any oncoming semi may drift into your lane out of necessity to keep them on the move—be prepared for emergency maneuvering if required.

Additionally, if you see a semi stopped in the middle of the highway or off to the side, stop and see if they’re OK. It’s always good to check on fellow motorists. We did in 2020 and helped a stranded trucker get a grader to pull him up and over a crest he got stuck on north of Eagle Plains.

The Connector: Richardson Highway

Known as the first major road built in Alaska, the Richardson Highway is a paved byway that connects Fairbanks to Valdez, Alaska. It’s noted as Alaska Route 4 from Valdez to Delta Junction and then as Alaska Route 2 from there to Fairbanks. The Richardson also links pieces of Alaska’s Route 1 between the Glenn Highway and the Tok Cut-Off.

The Richardson Highway runs 368 miles and is a mostly two-lane byway. This route boasts expansive mountains, glaciers, waterfalls, and desolate, picturesque scenery.

If you’re heading south from Fairbanks to Valdez, the town of Glennallen has gasoline, lodging, and food. Milepost 29 showcases Alaska’s Worthington Glacier, one of the state’s most accessible. Continue on and travelers are met with Thompson Pass, the snowiest place in Alaska.

It’s here where Andy and I were faced with road closures and severe cross winds that created the nastiest snow squall we’d ever seen. “Thompson pass on the Richardson was one of the worst white-outs I’ve ever been in,” Andy exclaimed.

“Despite its fairly low elevation, the 60 mph winds paired with massive snow drifts meant for tricky travel.” The 2024 winter Alcan 5000 was the first time the rally circuit voyaged down to Valdez—they were hesitant, exactly for this reason.

A Local’s Perspective

Susan Fouse, a New York native who moved to Alaska in 1975, participated in the first Alcan 5000 rally in 1984 as a navigator and switched seats for several winter and summer events as a driver. “I have experience in road racing and long-distance rallying,” Fouse said.

“I have won the Fur Rendezvous Grand Prix in my class several times in the 1980s, Alaska Sports Car Club ice racing championships and various autocrosses throughout my 10-year racing career.”

In the past, she’s driven the Richardson Highway from Glennallen to Valdez a total of 120 miles, multiple times per year until a few years ago. Her son, his wife and grandson live in in the city. “I have driven it in many different vehicles, including a Porsche 924 and 911 Carrera, Honda CR-V, Lexus 460 sedan, and my Mercedes Sprinter tour van. In the late 1970s, I drove it in an early model ‘70s Chevy van, which I drove up the Alcan in late March 1975 on my way to Alaska.”

Running the Richardson

Fouse doesn’t consider the Richardson Highway, or the “Rich,” to be a challenge. “You take it as it presents itself to you,” she said. “Sheer ice in the winter for the length of it or a foot or so of snow in Thompson Pass.

There is a weather line about mile 46 near the Tsaina Lodge, where, if it’s going to change, it will be for the worse.” Snow and high winds will be in winter, or rain will be in the summer.

“Thompson Pass is at 2,678’ elevation. It always requires undivided attention, even in the summer due to its curves, sometimes limited visibility and winds,” Fouse stated. “Winter is always a challenge. Shifting winds and drifting snow is a given, sometimes completely obscuring your vision.

Approaching the pass from either way is a burden on any vehicle because of the long steepness of the climb in either direction. However, Valdez has a rainforest climate.”

To her, the gorgeousness of this area on a clear day is breathtaking. “It doesn’t seem that nature could produce an area so formidable in the midst of its sheer beauty. The enormity of [the Richardson Highway] is mind boggling.

Every time I drive it, it’s like the first time.” Fouse said traveling on the Rich is simply a matter of being prepared and confident in your skill and equipment when driving it.

A Tale of Two Byways

“The biggest challenge this year on both the Richardson and the Dalton were keeping my eyes on the road with the amazing scenery all around you,” Andy explained. “The best things are the scenery changes around every corner, which captivates you. It’s stunning.”

What makes the Dalton and Richardson highways unique are the mix of mountains, lakes, and varying topography.

“There are ups, downs, twists, and curves all with the hopes of seeing some wildlife,” Andy added. “These two roads are Alaskan gems that hopefully any driver could be lucky enough to find themselves on someday.”

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This article originally appeared in OVR Issue 10. For more informative articles like this, consider subscribing to OVR Magazine in print or digital versions here. You can also find the print edition of OVR at your local newsstand by using our Magazine Finder.